Hi Lynn I wrap the square ones in paper--but most of these plaques come with a beveled edge so most of the time, no I don't wrap them.

Hi Lynn,

I use Tom's method, and the reason for the paper covering the base is that the "lid" for the box is glued onto the paper, and then placed over the box structure and supporting braces, creating the top (or bottom) of the base. The paper edges are glued and smoothed over the sides.

I use Aileens tacky glue for the bases, but usually use a glue stick to adhere the paper to the sides of the base.

Tom's directions are really clear and have pictures as well.

Have fun!
Barb

Thanks Barb. I am getting ready to make a base for a new house, I am going to give Tom’s method a try and I am keeping my figures crossed.

lynn...

i will make and mail you a base and a pattern...no charge...i just need to know the dimensions... x" by x" by x/x" high...

my very best regards...howard...

Hi, Howard, sorry for my delay in your generous offer. I just figure out the dimensions. The measurements I worked outare 4 ½ inches X 7 and ½ high. This is very nice of you, thanks so much!!

lynn...send me a mailing address...here is my email address...

sawdust43@bellsouth.net

recommend you not send mailing address as a forum post...

howard...

I suppose after all this time I should weigh in on the subject of warping bases. YES it can happen and not necessarily from flooding or water either. Sometimes time is NOT kind to these houses - and storage is likely a problem. I still have to repair a base that I had repaired and it was in a box too tight and just from pressure alone it completely warped and ruined the base. SO the method of ironing the base is an important one. It does two things. Besides straightening the base it also compresses the cardboard and makes it stronger. Other than the stored house I have never had problems with warping bases using the original method. So cannot really address the issue. I think the suggestions do sound reasonable. I have used an interior latex wall paint that I tint with other colors and it is fairly thick. One coat is generally enough. All of the paints we are using are however not authentic but we really don't know what was originally used but we know they had a wide spectrum of colors available to them. Follow the masters - the Japanese who sometimes combined what seems illogical paint base colors with different colored coconut. The Japanese are masters of paper and color. Tom

According to my neighbor, a popular paint for just about anything in Japan pre world war II was something similar to what is known as chalk paint today; she believes it was probably imported in plain white and that the Japanese achieved deep saturation of color by using kanji inks. Don't know how true this is, just passing it along....

Maria, that lines up with the "chalky feel" my putz houses always had on the back where they were painted but not finished.

I was at a friend's house today-she makes paper mache figures from old chocolate molds. Anyway when I picked up one of the pieces, it seemed inordinately heavy---that's because of the base she said. Then she showed me how she pieces the bases together from children's blocks she gets at thrift shops, then covers with paper--because she got tired of all the warping doing it with cardboard. By sheer coincidence, I had a bag of these blocks purchased at a local thrift shop so when I got home...see the photo below. These things will never warp! They're taped, glued and clamped, then using glue stick for the outer wrapping of paper--perfect thickness too. I'm on a roll!